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Amazing Art in
REAL LIVING TREASURES
THE CARVING of fine teak wood art is part of a long tradition
in Chiangmai. Many centuries ago, when northern Thailand was literally covered
in deep, rich teakwood forests, teak was the main building material of the
area. It was the material of boats, carts, fencing and homes. It was used
to build temples and it was used for the carving of Buddha images in the
temples. Whole teak trees were harvested and from them tall, beautiful statues
were carved. Thick planks were cut and from them, long, elaborate and intricate
home and temple lintels were carved. These were placed prominently above
entrances and across gable and hanging roof ledges, partly as decoration
and partly as ritual to appease the spirits.
This heritage of wood carving originated in the Land of Yonok, the area
that is now northern Thailand, Lao and part of southern China, more than
2,000 years go. There, the ancient traditions of the Lawa people, or Tai
tribes who inhabited the area at the same time, were recorded in carved
wood. Theirs was a wood culture. Stories were carved into teak in much
the same way that the ancient Egyptians carved hieroglyphics into stone
to tell their stories.
The Lawa carvings portrayed scenes from farming, from the village, from
the riverside and from the rice fields. They were oddly two-dimensional
scenes carved into a three-dimensional form. This equanimity in artistic
perspective in a duo dimensional medium is a hallmark of Tai carving and
tapestry. It is seen not only in the early Lawa carvings but also later
in much Tai art, including Lao paintings, Hmong embroidery and northern
Thai mural art.
The wall and table carvings we see today are done in the same artistic
tradition, with entire "Muang Scenes" carved into teak. The "muang" is
the traditional Thai village or town and in the carvings the "muang" is
set in a palm-filled tropical forest. The "muang scene" incorporates all
of the many features of Thai village society. The "paw luang" and his
acolytes are placed at the town center. The center represents the most
auspicious of locations in a Thai town, signifying direct contact with
the spirits and therefore the right to rule. At the side of a carved "muang
scene'", off in the distance, the farmers are in the rice fields, ploughing
and bent over.
Each carved teak mural depicts all features in a striking fashion. The
depth of the carving into the wood is usually 1-1/2 to 2 inches. This
depth on a 5-inch thick teak slab provides a level of detail not possible
on less pronounced carvings in other materials in high relief. In these
carvings there is little surface space left empty. Every tiny nook and
cranny is carved. Even the palm leaves of the forest trees are done with
such care that the veins and arteries of the leaves clearly stand out,
and the stems lead the eye back into the foliage to the source at the
branch on the tree trunk.
These carved teak murals are often two or three meters long. The artists
sit on short stools with a set of simple carving tools consisting of a
sharp knife, a few chisels of differing sizes, and a thin pick. They work
across the scene as if they have a complete vision of what it will look
like when they are finished. One carving takes four to five months to
complete. Although a larger piece specially commissioned by an art collector,
a hotel or a business could take much longer. This depends on the particular
detail of the scene and the final finish to the wood. The artists who
carve these incredible pieces of Tai art in the back rooms of teak factories
are a very special breed.
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