VENERATION OF A TOTEM, Pillar or Pole has been part of humankind's tradition for thousands of years. Native North Americans and Polynesians of the South Pacific have long prayed and given thanks in front of their carved-wood Totem Poles while millions in the Indian sub-continent pay respect to the sculpted stone lingam of Lord Shiva. Yet others, in Europe, dance around May Poles in a ritual to ensure life and abundance. In essence, these man-made symbols represent ancient beliefs in the life-force and fertility of all things. As such, they were placed at the centre, or heart, of a village community where they could be seen and revered by all. Just about every historic village, town or city features a "Fertility Totem" of some sort which reflects ancient beliefs little altered to this day.

Chiang Mai has its own City Pillar which, during the Inthakin Festival, is the focus of all attention. The actual source of our City Pillar has long been lost in the mists of time but some scholars suggest it may have been carried by migrating Thai as they drifted from Sipsongpanna in South-West China. That was long ago, perhaps the 9th Century, as the Dai (Thai) were drawn to the rich soils of the Mekong, Ping, Nan and Chao Phraya River Basins. So where the Pillar came from, and when, no one knows with certainty. What is known very positively is that Chiang Mai's City Pillar is now within the compound walls of Wat Chedi Luang at the centre of old Chiang Mai's fortified walls. During the eighth lunar month (which can fall in either May or June) the Pillar will be venerated during the week-long Inthakin Festival.

The Pillar is not part of Buddhist teaching but has been "accommodated" in tolerance of ancient animist beliefs. Also, as Wat Chedi Luang compound (which used to be much larger) is at the geographic centre of our city (Proppokklao Road), it is the natural place for the Pillar to be sited.

The Inthakin Festival (from June 3-8 ) will see hundreds of thousands of people, from all over the North of Thailand, make their way to pay respect to the Pillar at Wat Chedi Luang. City people, country folk, bankers, bakers, farmers, office workers, government officers, teachers will all flock to the Inthakin Pillar. They will come either as individuals, family groups or communities from outlying villages. Many will be in impromptu parade through Pratu Thapae (Thapae Gate) as this was the main city-gate from the River Ping.
The City Inthakin Pillar is housed in its own ornate Spirit House (which is only opened during Inthakin) and will receive the prayers of thousands of men from all walks of life. Traditionally, entrance into the Inthakin Spirit House is restricted to men only – but they carry the prayers of all wives, family and female relatives. However, women and girls, young and old, offer their prayers and sacred gifts along a "parade" of stations within the temple grounds. The entire Wat Chedi Luang compound will be ablaze with light – from the top of the mighty Chedi itself to thousands of flickering candles around its base. Flowers, too, will be in profusion as they represent part of traditional Inthakin Festival offerings. Believers will gently pour scented Lustral (Holy) Water over a Sacred Buddha image and collect the run-off, in small cups, which they sprinkle over their own head and the heads of loved ones. Thus, the blessings of Lord Buddha are entwined with the abundance bestowed from the Inthakin Pillar.

Overseas visitors are welcome to see, and participate if they wish, the Inthakin Festival. Invariably guests are amazed by the vast crowds arriving to offer devotion and prayers to this ancient symbol of life, plentiful rain (during the forthcoming rainy season) and abundant harvests in the months ahead. Visitors to will be stunned by the sheer, powerful size of Wat Chedi Luang and the spectacle of light, candles and flaming torches. But as a visitor, please remember that the compound of Wat Chedi Luang is hallowed ground and people should dress with respect. Shorts or other casual "beach wear" are a definite NO! Also, do remember that it is only men who are permitted to enter the Spirit House which shelters the Inthakin Pillar.

A question which visitors might wonder about is, "Why do such ancient ceremonies and symbols survive through to modern times?" Well, as far as Chiang Mai's Inthakin Pillar is concerned, some centuries ago the citizens of Chiang Mai wondered that themselves and didn't give the Pillar due attention. They'd become blase, tended to think "Ho Hum" and got on with their daily lives. Many of the citizens lacked respect for the Pillar – until the Burmese invaded and Chiang Mai was under Burmese occupation for several years. Many of those disrespectful citizens, who had forgotten the Pillar, were either taken prisoner or had to flee for their lives. Chiang Mai City Inthakin Pillar is the focal point for the communities prosperity and safety – the citizens have never again forgotten to offer it due respect!