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Long Live Chiangmai:
The Ceremonies of Tamboon
Muang & Sueb Shata Muang
The
Oldest, continually inhabited city of Thailand is Chiangmai but, to many
people, the city theoretically "died" centuries ago. Since its
foundation, in 1261, Chiangmai was at the heart of the old Lanna Kingdom.
Over the years, it became well established and grew prosperous to the
degree that it was coveted by its enemies. In 1558, Chiangmai fell to
the invading Burmese who continued to control the city until 1775. In
the hearts of the Lanna people, their beloved Chiangmai was "dead"
because it was no longer theirs.
Thanks
to assistance form the Siamese Kingdom of Ayutthaya, the Burmese were
eventually pushed out of Chiangmai and King Mengrai's lovely "Rose
of the North" was given new life. The citizens of Chiangmai have
not forgotten the rebirth of their city so, to this day, offer prayers
and thanks for the continued, renewed long life for this ancient city.
The ceremonies are called Tamboon Muang and Sueb Shata Muang. The former
means "Bless the City with Happiness" and the latter "Continue
the Life of the City" and the ceremonies are held around final week
of May.
The
Tamboon Muang ceremony is held, simultaneously, at the city's most important,
old landmarks namely, at each of the six city gates (Pratu) and at the
four comers (Jaeng) of the fortified moat. Each site will host nine Buddhist
monks who will place themselves to the left of a Buddha image. Citizens,
at each venue, will provide other symbolic items and will be under the
leadership of an "Ajarn Muang" a devout, knowledgeable and respected
lay Buddhist.
He will guide the people through the ceremony with the proper responses
to the monk's chanting (always in the ancient Pali language), see that
the holy water bowl or container and sacred cord (Sai Sin) are correctly
placed, arrange the lines of pennants, sand chedis (castles) and the "Y"
shaped pole supports for the branches of a Bhodi (sacred) tree. The Sai
Sin (sacred white cord) will be draped around the entire landmark site
and will keep out evil spirits while protecting all within.
The
Sueb Shata Muang "City Life Prolonging" ceremony will run concurrently
with that of the Tamboon Muang. The Northern Thai believe that their city
of Chiangmai (or any city) has its own horoscope, zodiacal sign and biorhythms.
Therefore, the city is regarded as having a life of its own and, hence,
the "Life Prolonging Ceremony". Buddhism is the highest of Thai
faiths but most Thai also believe in other, subsidiary, powers such as
sacred objects and the spirits of ancestral guardians and heroes (such
as the spirit of King Mengrai who founded Chiangmai).
Thus, participants in these ceremonies will also make obeyance to the
highest deity, Phra Phrom, Lord of the heavens and also to minor deities
compass points of North, South, East and West plus the deities of land,
rivers, and mountains all of these deities are important to the City of
Chiangmai so must be thanked for their goodness in the past and prayed
to for continuance in the future.
At
the conclusion of chanting from the Buddhist monks, each citizen will
pour some clean water (which he/she has brought along) over his own, outstretched
forefinger. With this symbolic water pouring goes the prayer and wish
that the essence of the food, or other items, gifted to the monks will
be transferred to the spirits of illustrious leaders of Chiangmai from
long ago leaders like King Mengrai, King Ngarm Muang of Payao, and King
Rama Kamhaeng of Sukhothai (who helped King Mengrai construct the city),
Prince Gawila and others who helped make Chiangmai the place that it is.
Finally the monk leader would bless the city landmarks nearby and everyone
by splashing holy water from the bowl.
Visitors
going to watch any of these ceremonies will not see any hoopla, or marching
bands. Instead they will have a glimpse into sincere Chiangmai hearts
as people give thanks for their city's return from the "dead"
and pray for the continued survival of this most ancient of Thai cities.
Long Live Chiangmai.
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